I saw the she-wolf trotting up the road that runs beside the lower Rio Hondo. I go about 190 and this demon dog did too. This dog was a beast. Cujo had nothing on this canine. Some folks are dog-people and some aren’t. I can almost always get along with any dog but when the she-wolf bared her teeth and raised her hackles twenty feet away from McPhail and me, I knew that there would be no friendly introduction replete with wagging tails and patted bellies.
As this Cerberus growled from about ten feet, I pondered jumping in one particularly deep pool, ringed by huge rocks but Mac and I had been holding that pool in reserve, high esteem, because we’d spotted a couple of nice risers earlier. The spring before, Mac had fished this pool and landed a buttery sixteen-inch brown trout that fell for a sweet Copper John hybrid that he ties (and won’t loan me.)
At five feet, it was clear there would be a confrontation between angler and man’s best friend. The pool we planned to fish was definitely now an escape/swimming option. The best and only gesture I could make was to assume a fencing position and horizontally lay out my rapier/8-foot, four-weight Hexagraph fly rod, ready to defend myself. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw a splashy rise in the big pool and that darned McPhail casting to it. I was alone with certain death.
Nothing happened of course. The devil-dog snarled at me as she circled. Her master, a snarly woman wearing a gimme cap and driving a red truck pulled up at the last second to simultaneously save me and gripe me out for attacking her precious dog with a flyrod. Mac hooked up with the trout and as he played it out, the rough-as-a-cob lady ordered the huge dog into the bed of the pickup and as she drove off, counseled me that “now you know how the natural order goes, son. Women rule.” I already knew that and as she left me standing in the dust, Mac netted the 15-inch cuttbow and grinned at me. You’ll never be bored on the Rio Hondo.
Ten miles north of Taos flows the Rio Hondo, an upper and a lower section, each distinctly different. You reach the upper section as though you’re heading to the Taos Ski Resort; the wooded high-country canyon stream twists and turns, clear with a green tint, right along with the winding paved road. This is dry-fly fishing at its most fun, offering dancing water, a million riffles, tiny pockets, foamy drop-pools, small flat pools, tiny chutes and some classic long runs. You always have to bring your full array of trick casts because the upper Hondo has tight quarters. Cuttbows and browns and not many are bragging size. In the highest reaches of the Rio Hondo, you can still catch the occasional cutthroat. We like it because it’s a five-hour drive from Amarillo.
Our favorite two times to fish the lower Hondo, especially the mile upstream from its confluence with the Rio Grande, are on Indian summer days in winter and in late spring when fish move up from her big-sister river. This is one-packed river, loaded with lies, full of trout, requiring patience, persistence and presentation. Start at the John Dunn Bridge and work your way upstream, taking care to watch out for large bearish dogs and mean women in pickup trucks.
******

3 little gems NM, CO

You ever have those little gems you don't want to write about because they're so good, you know if you shared them, your little piece of heaven would be overrun? here are three --- unnamed of course --- two in NM, one in Colorado. Nuff said.

Sugarite Canyon State Park, New Mexico

Went to take pics with Amy this past Saturday. She's finishing up an article for Rocky Mountain Fish and Game about Lakes Maloya and Alice in the park. No, she is not mentioning that special lake 1/2 mile walk away and in the other state.
Blustery day. No fly anglers on the water, only spin and bait. One determined kayaker braved the elements. Hiked into that one special lake with our dogs. Always fun to see NM trees and brush changing into fall dress. Amy and I are recently contracted to write two books with a two book option after that with Wayfinder Press: Top 30 Things to Do When You're In Durango and Top 30 Things to Do When You're In Telluride.